OK....  Here it is....

The infamous Kodak Carousel 750H Hip Gear LCD Controller Hack!!!!  ;-)

SUMMARY:  It's real and it's neat but it's not real neat.

This was a fun project.  Special thanks to Dale Cooper at the DiyAudio.com DIY Projector forum for providing the prototype and the  motivation!!

The Hip Gear LCD Controller can be had for around $40 and a slightly used and abused Kodak Carousel slide projector was sitting in my closet.  The results were better than I expected but the pixelation is too annoying to watch for extended periods of time. (IMHO)  Despite the drawbacks, this could be a lot of fun at a party or during Halloween.  I can't wait to have Nosferatu crawling across the side of our house.

The Hip Gear LCD Controller is very easy to disassemble.  If you aren't comfortable with it then you might want to reconsider the whole project.  Just proceed slowly and don't force things.  If something is stuck there is probably another screw to be found.  Tips can be found in this thread.

I can't recommend anything other than a Kodak Carousel projector.  These things are built like tanks and handle hacking very well.  Speaking of hacking...

A Dremel with a cut-off wheel is a necessity for the approach described below.  You might be able to find a way to minimize cutting but I found it easier to just cut things up. ;-)  The metal frame provides a nice, stable mounting surface for the LCD and circuit boards but it needs to be modified to allow things to fit properly.

A 5" lens will give you a 48" image about 9.5 feet from the screen.  I found you need to sit about 12 feet from the screen to minimize the size of the pixels.  It helps to put things slightly out of focus but this gets annoying, too.

Onward....

Here is the gutted projector.  Note the capped blue wires and the smaller gauge red, yellow and orange wires.  The white and black wires leading to the motor can be tapped to power up the wall wart for the LCD controller.



There are an infinite number of ways to mount the LCD panel in the projector.  I attacked a piece of galvanized metal bracing (89 cents at the hardware store) with a drill and Dremel.  I used JB Weld to epoxy the panel to the metal frame.



I used a Dremel to modify the frame holding the slide changing mechanism.  The LCD panel is mounted so it is as close to the condenser lense as possible.  I figured this would cover the panel with the maximum amount of light and it seems to work well.  Heat has not proved to be a problem (at least in my projector).



I drilled some holes in the edges of the LCD controller board and mounted it using some nylon spacers, #3 machine screws and nuts.  This picture is not accurate.  I eventually cut out the metal frame above the controller board to allow the board to sit completely out of the light path and out of the lens path. 

Note the enlarged holes for mounting the LCD panel.  They allow a small amount of adjustment.



Here is the mostly assembled, functional projector.  The wall wart is in the center of the projector.  The video controls board is double-sided taped to a piece of folded aluminum flashing and the ribbon cable was extended. (PIA!)  This allows the image to be adjusted by simply opening the cord storage compartment.



A rear-mounted RCA jack keeps things neat.



Top down view of assembled projector to show orientation of panel and board.



Who would guess this projector has gone digital? ;-)



Here are some crooked photos of the results (my bad technique not the projector).  The pixelation is much more irritating than the photos show.